Operation Midway Blitz Cuts $1.26B From Cook County Restaurants
Operation Midway Blitz has cost Cook County businesses $1.26 billion in potential revenue, with Chicago's independent restaurants absorbing the heaviest hit as back-of-house labor pools run dry and operators churn through staff at unsustainable rates.
Operation Midway Blitz has cost Cook County businesses $1.26 billion in potential revenue, with Chicago restaurants absorbing the heaviest share as federal immigration enforcement drains back-of-house labor pools already stretched thin by the pandemic.
The University of Illinois Chicago's Great Cities Institute published the estimate. The same data set quantifies a workforce structure that magnifies the shock: about 40% of Illinois food-industry workers are immigrants, the Illinois Restaurant Association reports.
Federal agents detained nearly 3,800 people in Chicago during operations that began in early September 2025, according to agency records obtained by Block Club Chicago and analyzed by the Chicago Tribune. The Tribune's reporting found the majority of those detained had no criminal record. The Department of Homeland Security called the operation a crime-reduction success.
For independent operators, those numbers translate directly into labor instability and rising labor costs.
How are independent operators absorbing the hit?
Geno Bahena, owner of mole-focused Manchamanteles, said he once found line cooks "at a moment's notice." That pipeline has gone dry. "A good cook cannot be replaced overnight," Bahena said. "Some employees know our sauces, our moles, our techniques, our preparations, and our way of working. That knowledge represents years of learning and experience."
At Santa Masa Tamaleria in Dunning, owner Jhoana Ruiz said two employees quit the same day last year when the raids began. The shop produces up to 800 tamales weekly for in-store sales and wholesale distribution across the Chicago area. "You put a sign for hiring, and no one is applying," Ruiz said.
One Bucktown operator told the Chicago Reader that they cycled through eight or nine back-of-house workers in three to four months, including a dishwasher who walked off mid-service. That same operator drove a staffer home after a midnight shift last year to ease immigration-related anxiety.
Why does the labor gap keep widening?
Raeghn Draper, who leads Chicago hospitality advocacy group the CHAAD Project, framed the shortage as a layering effect. "A lot of folks left the industry in COVID, and I think that already kind of produced a shortage, and then with the heightened immigration enforcement, I think that's just stacked on top of an industry that was already struggling to recover," Draper said.
Replacement workers, where they show up, demand higher wages and faster promotion tracks. Bahena's voice broke on this point: "Now, even if they work really hard for this country and we love this country, this country doesn't love us."
Culinary Agents, a hospitality job board, lists dozens of open Chicago roles, most of them back-of-house positions.
How are larger groups faring?
The pain does not fall evenly. Boka Restaurant Group cofounder and co-CEO Kevin Boehm said his company has not felt the same pressure from immigration enforcement, though broader operating costs remain punishing. "The restaurant business in America is not the restaurant business without the immigrant community, and there are certain restaurants that are more dependent on the immigrant community than others," Boehm said. "You can be disproportionately affected by the ICE raids based on your type of restaurant."
One Off Hospitality reported a similar experience. Lettuce Entertain You, Chicago's largest locally owned restaurant group, declined to comment.
Derrick Tung, owner of Paulie Gee's locations in Logan Square and Wicker Park, has drafted ICE-response protocols for his team. He also posted anti-ICE signage in his windows. "Even I was a little nervous about putting up the anti-ICE kind of propaganda in our windows because I'm worried that someone's going to see it and end up using us as a target," Tung said.
What does the math look like from here?
One medium-sized operator told the Reader that cumulative pressure—labor churn, ingredient inflation tied to tariffs, and softer demand—will push the middle tier out of the market. "There's no way someone like us can keep it going for a long time," the operator said. "It's not sustainable. You have to either go big or go small."
With raids continuing more than a year after launch and replacement labor scarce, Chicago's independent restaurants face a structural cost problem that menu price increases alone will not solve.
More from Olivia Hart
Show full bio
Staff writer covering marketplaces and e-commerce at The Pass Brief.
231 articles

